3Faze is my electric motorbike. I built it out of a Yamaha FZS-600 "Fazer", a four-cylinder petrol motorbike.
This page attempts to document the build itself, some of the technical challenges and how I overcame them, and also talk about building electric vehicles.
Why did I built the motorbike? Several reasons:
It's important to be realistic about building an electric vehicle:
However, don't let these things put you off building one altogether. The technology that goes into electric vehicles are rapidly improving, and a lot of research and development is going into new motor controllers, new types of motor, and (most importantly) battery technology. I confidently predict that we will see an order of magnitude improvement in electrical energy storage within five years - we've almost seen that much in the last.
To put that in perspective: at the moment most electric motorbikes can do a hundred to maybe two hundred kilometres on a charge. Now imagine if you could do one thousand kilometres on a charge. That's the kind of improvement I'm predicting, and I think it's quite realistic. When that happens, buying an electric motorbike won't sound like a crazy idea - it'll be a no-brainer.
Fundamentally you need three things for an electric vehicle:
You do also need a bunch of other things if you want to have more than just a go-kart:
So what did I put in my bike? Well, there's a simple description at my webpage on EV Album, but here it is in more detail:
Frame: a 1999 Yamaha FZS-600 'Fazer'. I originally bought this from a wrecker, since I didn't want to take a registered motorbike off the road. Repairable write-offs are cheaper, too.
Motor: an Enertrac MHM-602. This is a hub motor - the motor sits entirely in the rear wheel. Rated for 30KW peak, 10KW continuous.
Battery: 38 Thunder-Sky 60AH batteries. That was what I could find at the time (pouch cells weren't really available to end users then). Rated to 3C, so they'll do 180A (3 * 60) continuous.
Controller: Kelly KBL-12401I brushless DC motor controller. 120V, 400A peak (200A continuous), regenerative braking.
DC-DC converter: bought from PowerBox Australia. 150W at 12.5V. It would be better to output 13.8V so it ran a 12V lead-acid battery at the correct charge.
Battery management: a Lithiumate Lite made by eLithion. It's a full-featured digital monitoring system where you can see each cell's state of charge, for the price of an analogue system with no information. I like having lots of information.
Battery monitoring: the TBS
Electronics E-Xpert Pro. It's a nice, simple monitor that I've
mounted flush onto the top of the
Well, you can read my page on how to build an electric vehicle. This covers the general principles and tries to explain how you get from the idea to the execution.
And now there's a page with a bunch of pictures - still being added to.
mabula.net / 3faze / - © 2013 Paul Wayper - last updated Sunday 26th October 2014.